FAQs

This page contains some commonly asked questions and answers (Frequently Asked Questions = FAQ).

Best sources for information on your P38 Range Rover are the discussion forums at

AULRO.com
RangeRovers.net

There are other forums around, but these are the ones that I recommend.

Range Rover L322 (2)

Do you have front and rear bars for the L322?

No we don’t. Andy has been experimenting with a front bar for L322 but it is too early to publish anything.

No progress has been made on a rear bar and tyre carrier.

Do you have a snorkel for the L322 or Sport?

No we don’t. Andy was looking at this a couple of years ago, but no progress has been made.

Range Rover P38 - All (4)

Why did you stop selling the HRA P38 Roo Bar?

The Roo Bar was a joint design between Hardy (the original owner of Hard Range) and Alloy Motor Accessories in Brisbane, Australia. In early 2012 we decided that it would be more effective for customers to deal directly with the fabricator in terms of customisation, shipping and better pricing. We were making a very small profit on each bar to keep the cost down, and each bar was made to order, meaning that there was a lot of admin overhead ensuring that customisations, payment and shipping went smoothly. If there was ever a problem with the order, well, even more overhead.
We still think that AMA make great bars, and have been referring many people who ask about the Roo Bar to them. In late 2012 we heard that AMA have advised prospective customers that they are no longer offering the HRA Roo Bar (aka Brahma Bar) for sale.
This is a great shame, as it was the only SRS-airbag compliant aftermarket bar for the P38 in the world.

Why did you stop selling the Snorkel for the P38?

It is quite simply a supply issue with the fabricator.
We have asked them to redesign the Raised Air Intake (aka Snorkel) to make it sleeved to enable it to be shipped easier and cheaper. No further development is being done on the current design that has been sold around the world.
We will update the products page when it is available again.

Should I fit bigger tyres, Gen III Air Springs and lift my P38 (by EAS only or with spacers)?

This is a curly one, and depends on your budget and/or willingness to engineer your own solutions.

29″ is the standard outer diameter for P38 tyres, regardless of whether you are running 16″ or 18″ rims. If you are running bigger rims on a P38, you are probably breaking some local law or you are a drug dealer 🙂 I am looking at this from an off-roading viewpoint, so I will focus on 16″ rims only, as they give more rubber on the sidewall for bagging and grip.

The P38 in standard form with stock tyre size (usually 255/65R16), standard Boge shocks and stock Land Rover/Dunlop air springs is a formidable on-road and off-road vehicle. For most people, the standard setup is more than adequate to do some weekend off-roading, beach work and recover the occasional lesser 4wd.

Then there are those of us who like to push the “best 4x4xFar” a bit further…

I am big fan of Arnott Gen III Air Springs as they give more travel on the suspension and are bound top and bottom, meaning they are less likely to pop the bag/bladder off when articulating or when airborne. The downside of the binding rings is that if/when they do go, you have no choice other than to send the bag back to Arnotts for fixing or replacement. The design of the Gen III’s gives a firmer ride at EAS Highway Mode and a softer ride at EAS High Mode. I like this firmer handling at speed (i.e. Highway Mode) and more give when navigating obstacles off-road.

Regardless of the amount of suspension lift or body lift you install in your P38, the lowest point on the car will always be the diff centres. Short of swapping out the diffs from a Unimog, you can only raise the diff centres by increasing tyre size.

31″ tyres will give a 1″ increase in diff height while 33″ tyres will give a 2″ lift above standard.

31″ tyres will fit a P38 with minimal modifications. You may need to trim the mud flaps on the front wheels as you may get scrubbing on Access and Highway modes. If you go wider than 255 (maybe 265) you might also scrub the wheel arches when articulating. Then there is the problem of the spare tyre… it probably won’t fit in the boot well any more.

33″ tyres will need a 2″ lift kit installed first. No way will you be able to steer or move without damaging the tyres or wheel arches unless you lift the car.

With Gen III Air Springs, you may get an extra 2″ of travel but this doesn’t mean you should automatically raise EAS settings. By raising the EAS height of the vehicle with standard shocks, you are reducing the amount of travel left in the shocks to absorb on and off-road drops etc.

Longer shocks are ok as long as they don’t over-extend the air springs, causing them to strain and potentially pop-off. If you go for longer extended shock length, also consider what it does to the compressed shock length. It is no good having an extra 1-2″ of shock length if it means that the compressed state causes them to bottom out and destroy themselves. Yeah, you could extend the bump stops to limit the shock compression, but then you are also limiting the articulation ability of the vehicle on each side.

So, a 2″ suspension lift will solve a lot of articulation and clearance problems and let you run 33″ tyres on your P38. Here’s the bad news:

  1. you need to get shocks to suit the lift (you can move existing fronts to the rear)
  2. you need to extend the EAS height sensors
  3. you need to get extended brake lines or fabricate brackets to lower the existing lines
  4. you will need extended bump stops (or other means to compensate)
  5. with 33″ tyres, speedo and diff ratios are no longer correct. You will be travelling faster than the speedo indicates (around 15%), fuel consumption calculations on the Message Centre will be out… and most importantly for off-road use, you will travel much faster downhill in Low-1 than is comfortable. Consider swapping the diff gears out a for 4.1:1 ratio.
  6. due to the permanent 2″ suspension lift, there will be a greater angle on the front and rear drive shafts. This may lead to some whining noises and extra wear on the UJ’s. A double cardan joint on the rear shaft should fix this.

I will put more stuff in here as it comes to mind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am sick of EAS problems, and I want to convert to coils. Can you help?

Nope. Sorry, I am not interested in EAS to coil conversions on a P38.

If you feel that strongly about it, my suggestion is to sell the P38 to someone who will fix the EAS, and buy yourself a Disco II (without SLS) instead.

There is a lot of helpful information at aulro.com and rangerovers.net about fixing EAS issues. When all other troubleshooting fails and weirdness persists with the EAS, it is almost always the EAS Driver Unit (black box on the side of the valve block) or the EAS Delay Timer (under front LH seat) that is the culprit.

Or do you think you are too tough on the car for EAS to be up to the job? Sure… maybe you should be driving a Defender 😉

Range Rover P38 - EAS (2)

Should I fit bigger tyres, Gen III Air Springs and lift my P38 (by EAS only or with spacers)?

This is a curly one, and depends on your budget and/or willingness to engineer your own solutions.

29″ is the standard outer diameter for P38 tyres, regardless of whether you are running 16″ or 18″ rims. If you are running bigger rims on a P38, you are probably breaking some local law or you are a drug dealer 🙂 I am looking at this from an off-roading viewpoint, so I will focus on 16″ rims only, as they give more rubber on the sidewall for bagging and grip.

The P38 in standard form with stock tyre size (usually 255/65R16), standard Boge shocks and stock Land Rover/Dunlop air springs is a formidable on-road and off-road vehicle. For most people, the standard setup is more than adequate to do some weekend off-roading, beach work and recover the occasional lesser 4wd.

Then there are those of us who like to push the “best 4x4xFar” a bit further…

I am big fan of Arnott Gen III Air Springs as they give more travel on the suspension and are bound top and bottom, meaning they are less likely to pop the bag/bladder off when articulating or when airborne. The downside of the binding rings is that if/when they do go, you have no choice other than to send the bag back to Arnotts for fixing or replacement. The design of the Gen III’s gives a firmer ride at EAS Highway Mode and a softer ride at EAS High Mode. I like this firmer handling at speed (i.e. Highway Mode) and more give when navigating obstacles off-road.

Regardless of the amount of suspension lift or body lift you install in your P38, the lowest point on the car will always be the diff centres. Short of swapping out the diffs from a Unimog, you can only raise the diff centres by increasing tyre size.

31″ tyres will give a 1″ increase in diff height while 33″ tyres will give a 2″ lift above standard.

31″ tyres will fit a P38 with minimal modifications. You may need to trim the mud flaps on the front wheels as you may get scrubbing on Access and Highway modes. If you go wider than 255 (maybe 265) you might also scrub the wheel arches when articulating. Then there is the problem of the spare tyre… it probably won’t fit in the boot well any more.

33″ tyres will need a 2″ lift kit installed first. No way will you be able to steer or move without damaging the tyres or wheel arches unless you lift the car.

With Gen III Air Springs, you may get an extra 2″ of travel but this doesn’t mean you should automatically raise EAS settings. By raising the EAS height of the vehicle with standard shocks, you are reducing the amount of travel left in the shocks to absorb on and off-road drops etc.

Longer shocks are ok as long as they don’t over-extend the air springs, causing them to strain and potentially pop-off. If you go for longer extended shock length, also consider what it does to the compressed shock length. It is no good having an extra 1-2″ of shock length if it means that the compressed state causes them to bottom out and destroy themselves. Yeah, you could extend the bump stops to limit the shock compression, but then you are also limiting the articulation ability of the vehicle on each side.

So, a 2″ suspension lift will solve a lot of articulation and clearance problems and let you run 33″ tyres on your P38. Here’s the bad news:

  1. you need to get shocks to suit the lift (you can move existing fronts to the rear)
  2. you need to extend the EAS height sensors
  3. you need to get extended brake lines or fabricate brackets to lower the existing lines
  4. you will need extended bump stops (or other means to compensate)
  5. with 33″ tyres, speedo and diff ratios are no longer correct. You will be travelling faster than the speedo indicates (around 15%), fuel consumption calculations on the Message Centre will be out… and most importantly for off-road use, you will travel much faster downhill in Low-1 than is comfortable. Consider swapping the diff gears out a for 4.1:1 ratio.
  6. due to the permanent 2″ suspension lift, there will be a greater angle on the front and rear drive shafts. This may lead to some whining noises and extra wear on the UJ’s. A double cardan joint on the rear shaft should fix this.

I will put more stuff in here as it comes to mind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am sick of EAS problems, and I want to convert to coils. Can you help?

Nope. Sorry, I am not interested in EAS to coil conversions on a P38.

If you feel that strongly about it, my suggestion is to sell the P38 to someone who will fix the EAS, and buy yourself a Disco II (without SLS) instead.

There is a lot of helpful information at aulro.com and rangerovers.net about fixing EAS issues. When all other troubleshooting fails and weirdness persists with the EAS, it is almost always the EAS Driver Unit (black box on the side of the valve block) or the EAS Delay Timer (under front LH seat) that is the culprit.

Or do you think you are too tough on the car for EAS to be up to the job? Sure… maybe you should be driving a Defender 😉

Range Rover P38 - Lift Kit (1)

Should I fit bigger tyres, Gen III Air Springs and lift my P38 (by EAS only or with spacers)?

This is a curly one, and depends on your budget and/or willingness to engineer your own solutions.

29″ is the standard outer diameter for P38 tyres, regardless of whether you are running 16″ or 18″ rims. If you are running bigger rims on a P38, you are probably breaking some local law or you are a drug dealer 🙂 I am looking at this from an off-roading viewpoint, so I will focus on 16″ rims only, as they give more rubber on the sidewall for bagging and grip.

The P38 in standard form with stock tyre size (usually 255/65R16), standard Boge shocks and stock Land Rover/Dunlop air springs is a formidable on-road and off-road vehicle. For most people, the standard setup is more than adequate to do some weekend off-roading, beach work and recover the occasional lesser 4wd.

Then there are those of us who like to push the “best 4x4xFar” a bit further…

I am big fan of Arnott Gen III Air Springs as they give more travel on the suspension and are bound top and bottom, meaning they are less likely to pop the bag/bladder off when articulating or when airborne. The downside of the binding rings is that if/when they do go, you have no choice other than to send the bag back to Arnotts for fixing or replacement. The design of the Gen III’s gives a firmer ride at EAS Highway Mode and a softer ride at EAS High Mode. I like this firmer handling at speed (i.e. Highway Mode) and more give when navigating obstacles off-road.

Regardless of the amount of suspension lift or body lift you install in your P38, the lowest point on the car will always be the diff centres. Short of swapping out the diffs from a Unimog, you can only raise the diff centres by increasing tyre size.

31″ tyres will give a 1″ increase in diff height while 33″ tyres will give a 2″ lift above standard.

31″ tyres will fit a P38 with minimal modifications. You may need to trim the mud flaps on the front wheels as you may get scrubbing on Access and Highway modes. If you go wider than 255 (maybe 265) you might also scrub the wheel arches when articulating. Then there is the problem of the spare tyre… it probably won’t fit in the boot well any more.

33″ tyres will need a 2″ lift kit installed first. No way will you be able to steer or move without damaging the tyres or wheel arches unless you lift the car.

With Gen III Air Springs, you may get an extra 2″ of travel but this doesn’t mean you should automatically raise EAS settings. By raising the EAS height of the vehicle with standard shocks, you are reducing the amount of travel left in the shocks to absorb on and off-road drops etc.

Longer shocks are ok as long as they don’t over-extend the air springs, causing them to strain and potentially pop-off. If you go for longer extended shock length, also consider what it does to the compressed shock length. It is no good having an extra 1-2″ of shock length if it means that the compressed state causes them to bottom out and destroy themselves. Yeah, you could extend the bump stops to limit the shock compression, but then you are also limiting the articulation ability of the vehicle on each side.

So, a 2″ suspension lift will solve a lot of articulation and clearance problems and let you run 33″ tyres on your P38. Here’s the bad news:

  1. you need to get shocks to suit the lift (you can move existing fronts to the rear)
  2. you need to extend the EAS height sensors
  3. you need to get extended brake lines or fabricate brackets to lower the existing lines
  4. you will need extended bump stops (or other means to compensate)
  5. with 33″ tyres, speedo and diff ratios are no longer correct. You will be travelling faster than the speedo indicates (around 15%), fuel consumption calculations on the Message Centre will be out… and most importantly for off-road use, you will travel much faster downhill in Low-1 than is comfortable. Consider swapping the diff gears out a for 4.1:1 ratio.
  6. due to the permanent 2″ suspension lift, there will be a greater angle on the front and rear drive shafts. This may lead to some whining noises and extra wear on the UJ’s. A double cardan joint on the rear shaft should fix this.

I will put more stuff in here as it comes to mind.